Chasing Color in the New Mexico Sky

My Polar watch starts buzzing at 2:02 a.m. I get up, brew myself a coffee, and take it along for the ride. The drive to Albuquerque is wonderfully relaxing, cruise control set at 75 mph. However, every car that passes me suddenly becomes an enemy. What if it steals a good parking spot at the Fiesta?

I arrive at 3:30 a.m. Perfect timing. Perfect parking.

I know what to expect, yet I’m surprised all over again. Hundreds of people—no, thousands—are already here at this early hour. Parents with children, a young woman carrying a small dog. It is so refreshing to see so many people getting out of bed in the middle of the night.

I start walking across the field. It’s so dark that I can barely see where I’m going. Fortunately, I know the ground is flat. That helps!

The pilots are already at their launch sites, unpacking and unrolling their baskets and envelopes. They seem remarkably relaxed, even with people like me practically standing on top of them.

I get a chance to talk to one of the pilots, Mark. His wife and two daughters are helping him set up the balloon. When I ask him about it, he laughs and tells me they’re the third generation in his family to do this.

“My father did it for decades. Now it’s me.”

I love that. Three generations, one ballooning tradition.

Wandering around the field is fun. The air is crisp, around 50°F (10°C). And then comes one of my favorite moments: a pilot ignites the gas burner, and a mighty flame roars into the balloon. For a few seconds, the darkness lights up—and, as a very welcome side effect, I get warmed up!

Watching the pilots and their crews at work makes one thing clear: you have to know exactly what you’re doing. Every knot, every connection, every lock on the basket must be checked. The wind guard is set, the envelope inspected. There is a great deal of preparation behind what looks almost effortless.

Meanwhile, the spectators are eagerly waiting for the green flag. It looks as though there might be a delay.

But I’m not too worried. After all, I believe that I don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. Yes, I know—that’s a famous line from Bob Dylan’s “Subterranean Homesick Blues.” I couldn’t resist.

About 30 minutes later, the wait is over.

The New Mexico Chile Flight rises over the Fiesta, and the first balloon lifts off to enormous applause and cheers. Then “The Star-Spangled Banner” plays. For a brief moment, you can put aside all the noise of politics and simply enjoy being part of something extraordinary.

One balloon after another takes off, each crew receiving its own round of cheers. I watch a huge balloon with an equally huge basket carrying at least ten people. It’s one of the balloons taking tourists aloft. A man leans over and kisses his wife before departure. I can’t help thinking: Hopefully not for the last time!

It just looks that way.

Soon, the sky is filling with balloons. And now I’m doing exactly what my title promises: chasing color in the New Mexico sky.

Everyone is looking up, including me. Before long, we’re all walking around like a bunch of slightly drunk people, swaying and stumbling as we try to navigate the field without taking our eyes off the sky. You really do have to adjust to the ground not moving while your eyes insist that everything above you is in motion!

Eventually, it’s time to explore another attraction: the extensive food and merchandise area. Main Street, inside the park, stretches for more than a third of a mile (over half a kilometer), lined with food stands and vendors.

I take my time, enjoying the wonderful smells drifting from more than 100 food stands. Breakfast burritos, green chile cheeseburgers, Blake’s Lotaburger, Hatch Shack, and all sorts of other New Mexican chile specialties. The choices are endless.

Fortunately, there are long lines everywhere. Not everyone is as single-minded as I am. I have a mission: to find a barista-made cappuccino and a delicious, buttery, flaky, golden-brown croissant.

I don’t leave empty-handed, either. A few balloon-themed souvenirs find their way into my bag. At least I’m doing my bit to support local businesses.

What an incredible Fiesta! But being a curious person in general, I want some numbers to put the spectacle into perspective.

The Balloon Fiesta by the numbers

• Hundreds of balloons: During a mass ascension, hundreds (550 – 600) of hot-air balloons rise into the sky in a breathtaking sequence.
• Hundreds of pilots: This year, 700 Balloonists and their crews come from around the world to participate in the Fiesta.
• A sky transformed: In roughly two hours, the launch field can send balloon after balloon soaring into the sky.
• An international gathering: The 2026 roster includes pilots from countries across the globe, including Brazil, the United Kingdom, Canada, Japan, Australia, France, Germany, Mexico, Spain, Switzerland (David Strasmann, Affoltern im Emmental, Bern), and Tanzania. Brazil alone brought 18 balloons this year!
• A crowd of its own: The nine-day Fiesta draws hundreds of thousands (around 850’000) of visitors. On a mass ascension morning, the launch field can be packed with spectators—reportedly around 100,000.

And there I was, one person among all those thousands, still on a search for a cappuccino and a croissant!

So, what do you think? Have I convinced you to go next year?

I certainly don’t need convincing. I’m ready to go again.

Next time, I’ll bring Cindy along.

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